Musala Climbing Notes
Please submit any useful information about climbing Musala that may be useful to other climbers. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Musala, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit.
April 20, 2012
miro from Bulgaria
Climbing Mussala is best in Feb-Mar with snowshoes and well prepared, or July August or Sept.
In the winter :
The easiest is catch the gondola from Borovets ski resort up to 2300m from there ski 2 lifts diagonally and when on the last one Markudjik 3 drag lift, ski diaginally towards Mussala Hut. So all of this takes 25min Gondola plus another Half hour to reach the Hut. If you have started first thing in the morning you will be by 10 near the hut at 2400m.
From there the climb starts. You head towards the Ice Lake moving up 3 terraces within 2-3 hrs providing the snow is firm. Then for the last heavy climb I suggest make sure you are in a group and follow the winter route .
If you manage to reach the summit by 3-4PM and the snow is good (plentiful and firmer to avoid avalanches) you can ski it down to the lake and back to base on Markudjik ski area before closing time. Note- notorious section around Ice lake if the snow is not deep.
From Markudjik Lift you head down on the Musalenska path down to resort. Again, if there is enough snow, all the way down to Borovets.
No special climbing gear needed,just snowshoes and crampons for the last bit. And Fat skis needed for the skiing down-good level of off piste skiing required.
There are plenty of guides which you can hire for the trip.
This winter it was very easy in late March because of the record snow cover and perfect snow conditions and weather.
March 28, 2012
Abílio Guimarães from Portugal
In early May it is necessary crampons and piolet?