we plan to climb up the mountain at the end of February. we have winter equipment (crampons) and good clothing. What is the best way to approach the mountain in the morning from Refugio de Poquera?
Thanks for help
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Latest submitted climbing notes
Majestic Mount Islay, Is a 3 day slog up mostly a glacier ice field. Pay close attention to the calving glaciers that surround you on ones accent of this monster majestic Peak. Don't be alarmed by the loud booms of calving glaciers its a normal daily event. Ice axe and crampons are a staple for a successful summit attempt and your best down gear it's cold! One your way to the summit, make sure to visit Lake Islay, a beautiful glacial fed lake with spectacular blue water. Good luck you'll need it!
This is a great route. It's an alternative to the West Ridge or Cascadian Couloir. There are no loose dirt gullies on this route. It is mainly class II/III with one short class V pitch at the 3/4 pinch point.
From Longs Pass, descend to Ingall's Creek. At the trail junction, go left (W) for about 1/3 mile. Look for a prominent creek on the right, sometimes marked with a cairn. Proceed up creek (a bit brushy to begin) and make your way left out of the creek as soon as practical. Continue directly up keeping the creek on your right for about 1000' through mixed terrain. When it gets steep, move left until you find a prominent gully to ascend. Proceed up, then right to enter Ulrich's. Move up and right through Ulrich's on solid blocky terrain until you reach an awkward pinch point in the gully. Climb directly up through this obstacle. Easy class V for 20'. Glad to be wearing approach shoes here. In fact for the entire route. Continue directly to the main summit from here, veering right when forced to choose. Descend via Cascadian.
My time from Longs Pass to summit is about 5 hrs. I found water on the route, even in September. On my three ascents I've never seen another person (or cairn).
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