Nirekha Climbing Notes
Nirekha climbing notes shared by Mountain-Forecast users
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(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
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October 15, 2025
Altitude Junkies from Nepal
Nirikha expedition is a beginner peak but more adventurous than any other 6000m peak such as Lobuche and island peak and the expedition will place fixed ropes where necessary for the safety of all the climbers and staff. We have allocated 6 days at base camp and above to allow ample time for rope fixing as well as contingency days in case we experience bad weather.
The ascent follows a moraine ridge, leading to a blue ice section that is slightly vertical and requires the use of fixed ropes for safety. After crossing this section, climbers will navigate two additional short vertical climbs. At approximately 5,900 meters, there is a possibility of encountering crevasses, making careful route navigation will shortly lead to the summit.
Only one camp will be established on the mountain, with Camp One at 5,400 meters serving as the high camp.
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January 12, 2022
Hazem El Shamy from Egypt
Easy to access from Dzongla if climbing the west ridge. Set up base camp at the foot of the glacier.
About 15 hours round trip (BC-BC) at a reasonable pace. Can be done in 8-10 hours for a fast team. Glacier travel is short but beware of crevasses. Once you get on the ridge, the climbing is straight forward. Crux pitch is about 150m from the summit as you exit the ridge and get onto the glaciated slopes of the west face, a couple of sketchy moves traversing a snow bulge and then heading straight up, needs decent snow conditions.
(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
Altitude Junkies from Nepal
Nirikha expedition is a beginner peak but more adventurous than any other 6000m peak such as Lobuche and island peak and the expedition will place fixed ropes where necessary for the safety of all the climbers and staff. We have allocated 6 days at base camp and above to allow ample time for rope fixing as well as contingency days in case we experience bad weather.
The ascent follows a moraine ridge, leading to a blue ice section that is slightly vertical and requires the use of fixed ropes for safety. After crossing this section, climbers will navigate two additional short vertical climbs. At approximately 5,900 meters, there is a possibility of encountering crevasses, making careful route navigation will shortly lead to the summit.
Only one camp will be established on the mountain, with Camp One at 5,400 meters serving as the high camp.
Hazem El Shamy from Egypt
Easy to access from Dzongla if climbing the west ridge. Set up base camp at the foot of the glacier.
About 15 hours round trip (BC-BC) at a reasonable pace. Can be done in 8-10 hours for a fast team. Glacier travel is short but beware of crevasses. Once you get on the ridge, the climbing is straight forward. Crux pitch is about 150m from the summit as you exit the ridge and get onto the glaciated slopes of the west face, a couple of sketchy moves traversing a snow bulge and then heading straight up, needs decent snow conditions.