Iztaccihuatl Climbing Notes
Please submit any useful information about climbing Iztaccihuatl that may be useful to other climbers. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Iztaccihuatl, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit.
April 14, 2018
Guillermo Vidales from Mexico
It is a National Park, it is a good option to climb a mountain of 17119 feet, the road to get to Iztaccihuatl is traveling from Mexico City to the Town of Amecameca and going up the road to "Paso de Cortez", there you can get the entry permit in the national park office, the entrance time is from 07:00 to 21:00, on the other hand, the map is near the city of Puebla but the road is off road, so it is better to go On the way to Amecameca Paso de Cortes, when you have permission to enter the park you will have to move to "La Joya" and sleep in tents, start hiking at 02:00 to be at good altitude when the sun rises and return by the afternoon to the base camp, by the way of the "Zone of Refugees" - "The Knees" - "The pansa" and finally "the Chest", you can consult the people of Hgmexico for information of which equipment to take, which options of acclimatization, etc., since 1978 they bring people from different countries to Iztaccihuatl and to the volcanoes of Mexico and is the only one without accidents in their ascents.
February 27, 2017
Paco Trad from Mexico
Which roughly translates as white woman, due to the glaciers existing around 15,000 feet (5,000 meters) above sea level and that still to this day survive, is an extinct volcano offering spectacular views of the central Mexico's Sierra Madre and the valleys of Mexico City (Tenochtitlán), Puebla City and Toluca. Iztaccíhuatl is also often called the "Sleeping Lady" because of the obvious shape of a laying down woman, face up, as though she was by a spell, asleep through millennia.
The climbing on the classical routes is mostly very moderate "hiking" to slightly technical "scrambling" or glacier (now s lot of them drying up), with some alternative routes which offer some added adventure (beware loose rock and poor ice conditions). Most climbers stick to the two main routes "la normal" or the "Portillos" route or the "Ayoloco" route which attacks the summit from the State of Mexico side up to the "Belly" glacier of the Sleeping Woman shape of the mountain. Guide services are provided from different cities but the most reputable ones are either from Mexico City or Puebla, Mex City being only a couple hours away driving or by bus, but since local transports are inconsistent, driving or hiring a guide service is better than taking the bus and missing the last bus down to any city.
A Mexico City based company called "Mexico Climbing" (on Facebook) offers premier all included service to the summit on a two day logistic. Climbing Izta is a safe trip from nearby Amecameca town, since an isolated crime incident made Mexico Climbing guides spring into action and perform a series of negotiations with the Mexican government, starting with a televised march/ascent against crime and violence started by yours truly Paco Trad and a few brave volunteers that resulted in the first Mountain Police ever in Mexico. Now a days the mountain is very peaceful, but climbing up from the town of San Rafael as opposed to Amecameca, is still not advised and best be avoided until deemed safe again. Seems illegal timber/logging is a very profitable business and local mobsters from the San Rafael side are reluctant to give free passing to hikers.
All in all, climbing Iztaccíhuatl is very safe from Amecameca for either of the two most popular routes and hopefully some rock climbing and bouldering might find it's way into the local talent's curiosity. There is some potential in adventure rock climbing and possibly some bouldering, ice is receding as in all the rest of the world but some years you will still find good snow covered glaciers and maybe some steep ice for the more experienced mountaineers.
High Altitude Sickness is to be taken seriously since rescues are not very swift and helicopters cannot fly in because of nearby Popocatepetl active volcano. Unless you are a well experienced climber mountaineer, a guide will be most useful to keep you safe and communicated via VHF radio with the local Mountain Police.
Have a safe and fun climb and as we say in Mexico Climbing:
FELICES ESCALADAS!!! Happy Climbing!!!
November 07, 2012
Guillermo Vidales Reyes from Mexico
Iztaccihuatl mountain is open again :-)
September 18, 2012
Guillermo Vidales Reyes from Mexico
Iztaccihuat access is open again: began on September 10, 2012. The best mountain guides to lead you up and to teach you about the culture of Mexico are the hgmexico. They have all the necessary logistics like transportation, lodging and equipment. They are friendly, flexible and work all year round. Even if you do not need their services, they can give you information on the current conditions.
April 19, 2012
Moy Triana from Mexico
MOUNTAIN ACCESS IS CLOSED DUE TO VOLCANIC ACTIVITY OF POPOCATEPETL.
Tue, April 16 2012
It might be reopened only until the volcaninc alert deacreases or worst case scenario after an eruption of popocatepetl.
December 01, 2010
rodolfo reyes from Peru
Peruvian Mountains Tour Operator located in Huaraz Peru we offers expeditions trip as trekking climbing mountain bike horseback riding fishing walking hiking in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Raura Cuzco Arequipa Puno Nazca Paracas
Cordillera blanca trekking:
- olleros -chavin
- santa cruz - vaqueria
- santa cruz ulta
- quilkayhuanca - ishinca
- circuit cedros - alpamayo - vaqueria
- circuit cedros - alpamayo - ulta
Cordillera blanca climbing :
- Huascaran 6,7368m.
- chopicalqui 6,354m.
- artesonraju 6,025m.
- quitaraju 6.034m.
- tocllarajub 6,030m.
- pisco 5,752m.
- vallunaraju - urus - ishinca
cordillera huayhuash trekking:
- full trek 12 to 14 days
- huayhuash - cajatambo
- queropalca - huayhuash
- mini trek huayhuash
For more details and informations contact us and visit our web site