Iztaccihuatl Climbing Notes

  • October 27, 2019
    Guillermo Vidales from Mexico

    If you want climb this mountain is important know the equipment, you can find the list on

    Mountaineering equipment for hike and trekking in Mexico

    Instead we have made a list of suggestions related to the things that we consider among the most important for this activity.

    -Trekking or Hiking boots:
    It is necessary to waterproof. It is important that are not steel toed because this could increase the likelihood of your feet freezing.

    Boots for climb in Mexican volcanoes and mountains
    - Trekking or hiking Pants, if you want you can take layer under pants.
    - Weatherproof Jacket
    - Fleece or Polartec
    - Gloves or Mittens
    It is recommended to bring at least 2 pairs.
    - Sun Glasses
    - Head wear:
    There are different types of head wear: caps and headbands made of wool, fleece, polypropylene, etc. It is very important that you don't forget to bring head wear.
    - Helmet
    - Sun block cream: Sun block prevents sun burn and protects your skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.
    - Headlamp (LEDs):
    You must bring a headlamp even if you plan to return the same day, before nightfall. We recommend that you use a headlamp because it is important to keep your hands free during the ascent. Be sure to protect the batteries from the cold so that they do not loose their charge.

    Equipment for Mexican mountains -

    Backpack:

    Pending on the magnitude of your trip you should bring the following:
    -Small first aid kit
    -Emergency and routine food
    -Water (2- 3 liters)

    For Base camp
    -Sleeping bag
    -Sleeping pad
    -camping stove, dishes, cutlery, cookware
    -An extra change of clothes
    -Tent.

    For climbing Pico de Orizaba or Iztaccihuatl you need
    - Crampons
    - Ice Axe
    - Helmet

    Course the best trips since 1976 is with hgmexico you can find the web on internet

  • October 08, 2019
    Paco Trad from Mexico

    Update:
    Iztaccíhuatl
    Which roughly translates as white woman, due to the glaciers existing around 15,000 feet (5,215 meters, last measurement) above sea level and that still to this day survive. Izta, for short, is an extinct volcano offering spectacular views of the central Mexico's Sierra Madre and the valleys of Mexico City (Tenochtitlán), Puebla City and Toluca. You can also see on most days, Pico de Orizaba far away in the horizon to the east.

    Iztaccíhuatl is also often called the "Sleeping Lady" because of the obvious shape of a laying down woman, face up, as though she was by a spell, asleep through millennia.

    The climbing on the classical routes is mostly very moderate "hiking" to slightly technical "scrambling" or glacier (now almost extinct), with some alternative routes which offer some added adventure (beware loose rock and poor ice conditions). Most climbers stick to the two main routes "la normal or the Portillos" route or the "Ayoloco" route which attacks the summit from the State of Mexico side up to the "Belly" glacier of the Sleeping Woman shape of the mountain.

    Guide services are provided from different cities but the most reputable ones are either from Mexico City or Puebla, Mex City being only a couple hours away driving or by bus, but since local transports are inconsistent, driving or hiring a guide service is better than taking the bus and missing the last bus down to any city.
    A Mexico City based company called "Mexico Climbing" (on Facebook and Instagram) offers premier all included service to the summit on a two day logistic. Mexico Climbing is certified by State Security and authorized by the National Parks Commission CONANP. Climbing Izta is a safe trip from nearby Amecameca town, since an isolated crime incident made Mexico Climbing guides spring into action and perform a series of negotiations with the Mexican government, starting with a televised march/ascent against crime and violence started by yours truly Paco Trad and a few brave volunteers that resulted in the first Mountain Police ever in Mexico. Now a days the mountain is very peaceful, but climbing up from the town of San Rafael as opposed to Amecameca, is still not advised and best be avoided until deemed safe again. Seems illegal timber/logging is a very profitable business and local mobsters from the San Rafael side are reluctant to give free passing to hikers.

    All in all, climbing Iztaccíhuatl is very safe from Amecameca for either of the two most popular routes and hopefully some rock climbing and bouldering might find it's way into the local talent's curiosity. There is some potential in adventure rock climbing and possibly some bouldering, ice is receding as in all the rest of the world but some years you will still find good snow covered glaciers and maybe some steep ice for the more experienced mountaineers.

    High Altitude Sickness is to be taken seriously since rescues are not very swift and helicopters cannot fly in because of nearby Popocatepetl active volcano. Unless you are a well experienced climber mountaineer, a guide will be most useful to keep you safe and communicated via VHF radio with the local Mountain Police.

    Have a safe and fun climb and as we say in Mexico Climbing:

    FELICES ESCALADAS!!! Happy Climbing!!!

  • April 14, 2018
    Guillermo Vidales from Mexico

    Iztaccihuatl
    It is a National Park, it is a good option to climb a mountain of 17119 feet, the road to get to Iztaccihuatl is traveling from Mexico City to the Town of Amecameca and going up the road to "Paso de Cortez", there you can get the entry permit in the national park office, the entrance time is from 07:00 to 21:00, on the other hand, the map is near the city of Puebla but the road is off road, so it is better to go On the way to Amecameca Paso de Cortes, when you have permission to enter the park you will have to move to "La Joya" and sleep in tents, start hiking at 02:00 to be at good altitude when the sun rises and return by the afternoon to the base camp, by the way of the "Zone of Refugees" - "The Knees" - "The pansa" and finally "the Chest", you can consult the people of Hgmexico for information of which equipment to take, which options of acclimatization, etc., since 1978 they bring people from different countries to Iztaccihuatl and to the volcanoes of Mexico and is the only one without accidents in their ascents.

  • February 27, 2017
    Paco Trad from Mexico

    Iztaccíhuatl
    Which roughly translates as white woman, due to the glaciers existing around 15,000 feet (5,000 meters) above sea level and that still to this day survive, is an extinct volcano offering spectacular views of the central Mexico's Sierra Madre and the valleys of Mexico City (Tenochtitlán), Puebla City and Toluca. Iztaccíhuatl is also often called the "Sleeping Lady" because of the obvious shape of a laying down woman, face up, as though she was by a spell, asleep through millennia.
    The climbing on the classical routes is mostly very moderate "hiking" to slightly technical "scrambling" or glacier (now s lot of them drying up), with some alternative routes which offer some added adventure (beware loose rock and poor ice conditions). Most climbers stick to the two main routes "la normal" or the "Portillos" route or the "Ayoloco" route which attacks the summit from the State of Mexico side up to the "Belly" glacier of the Sleeping Woman shape of the mountain. Guide services are provided from different cities but the most reputable ones are either from Mexico City or Puebla, Mex City being only a couple hours away driving or by bus, but since local transports are inconsistent, driving or hiring a guide service is better than taking the bus and missing the last bus down to any city.
    A Mexico City based company called "Mexico Climbing" (on Facebook) offers premier all included service to the summit on a two day logistic. Climbing Izta is a safe trip from nearby Amecameca town, since an isolated crime incident made Mexico Climbing guides spring into action and perform a series of negotiations with the Mexican government, starting with a televised march/ascent against crime and violence started by yours truly Paco Trad and a few brave volunteers that resulted in the first Mountain Police ever in Mexico. Now a days the mountain is very peaceful, but climbing up from the town of San Rafael as opposed to Amecameca, is still not advised and best be avoided until deemed safe again. Seems illegal timber/logging is a very profitable business and local mobsters from the San Rafael side are reluctant to give free passing to hikers.

    All in all, climbing Iztaccíhuatl is very safe from Amecameca for either of the two most popular routes and hopefully some rock climbing and bouldering might find it's way into the local talent's curiosity. There is some potential in adventure rock climbing and possibly some bouldering, ice is receding as in all the rest of the world but some years you will still find good snow covered glaciers and maybe some steep ice for the more experienced mountaineers.

    High Altitude Sickness is to be taken seriously since rescues are not very swift and helicopters cannot fly in because of nearby Popocatepetl active volcano. Unless you are a well experienced climber mountaineer, a guide will be most useful to keep you safe and communicated via VHF radio with the local Mountain Police.

    Have a safe and fun climb and as we say in Mexico Climbing:

    FELICES ESCALADAS!!! Happy Climbing!!!

  • November 07, 2012
    Guillermo Vidales Reyes from Mexico

    Iztaccihuatl mountain is open again :-)

  • September 18, 2012
    Guillermo Vidales Reyes from Mexico

    Iztaccihuat access is open again: began on September 10, 2012. The best mountain guides to lead you up and to teach you about the culture of Mexico are the hgmexico. They have all the necessary logistics like transportation, lodging and equipment. They are friendly, flexible and work all year round. Even if you do not need their services, they can give you information on the current conditions.

  • April 19, 2012
    Moy Triana from Mexico

    URGENT

    MOUNTAIN ACCESS IS CLOSED DUE TO VOLCANIC ACTIVITY OF POPOCATEPETL.

    Tue, April 16 2012

    It might be reopened only until the volcaninc alert deacreases or worst case scenario after an eruption of popocatepetl.

  • December 01, 2010
    rodolfo reyes from Peru

    Peruvian Mountains Tour Operator located in Huaraz Peru we offers expeditions trip as trekking climbing mountain bike horseback riding fishing walking hiking in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Raura Cuzco Arequipa Puno Nazca Paracas

    Cordillera blanca trekking:
    - olleros -chavin
    - santa cruz - vaqueria
    - santa cruz ulta
    - quilkayhuanca - ishinca
    - circuit cedros - alpamayo - vaqueria
    - circuit cedros - alpamayo - ulta

    Cordillera blanca climbing :
    - Huascaran 6,7368m.
    - chopicalqui 6,354m.
    - artesonraju 6,025m.
    - quitaraju 6.034m.
    - tocllarajub 6,030m.
    - pisco 5,752m.
    - vallunaraju - urus - ishinca

    cordillera huayhuash trekking:
    - full trek 12 to 14 days
    - huayhuash - cajatambo
    - queropalca - huayhuash
    - mini trek huayhuash

    For more details and informations contact us and visit our web site