Gori Chen Climbing Notes
Please submit any useful information about climbing Gori Chen that may be useful to other climbers. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Gori Chen, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit.
April 13, 2018
a kumar from India
Gorichen is a high rock and ice peak and the most western and most easily accessed of the main Arunchal peaks.
This mountain was first climbed by an Indian Army expedition, led by T. Haralu, in 1966. On October 29th Maj. J.C. Joshi, Capt. N. Thapa, Lt. A.J.B. Jaini, Lt. N.P. Rajagopal, Nk. Mann Singh, L/Nk Darshan Singh, L/Nk Hira Bahadur and Gyamtsola stood on the summit. They had certain difficulties during their descent. (Source: Himalayan Mountainieering Journal, Vol. 4 No. 2 cited in "Exploring the Hidden Himalaya" by Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia. London 1990). A second ascent was also made by an Indian Army expedition led by Maj. A. Sen.
Today it is the most frequented of the Assam peaks. The elevation of the mountain is still disputed; the 1994 Indian expedition revised it from 6858m/22500ft to 6488m/21286ft (they thought that they made the first climb....), but also other elevations have been measured.
The mountain has several subsidiary, slightly lower peaks, which also have been climbed. Together with Bhutan, Assam is the least explored of the Himalaya, and inhibits many unclimbed 6000m peaks.
May 09, 2016
Tsering from India
Gori Chen is a high rock and ice peak and the most western and most easily accessed of the main Arunachal peaks with an elevation of 6,488 metres (21,286ft). It belongs to The Himalaya Mountain Group and is a sub-range to Assam Himalaya. It is also the Headwaters of the Kameng River in Tawang. Today it is the most frequented of the Assam peaks. The mountain has several subsidiaries, slightly lower peaks, which also have been climbed. Together with Bhutan, Assam is the least explored of the Himalaya. In 1939, an Englishman Bill Tilman was the first man to attempt climbing in the remote and unexplored Southern approaches of Gori Chen, before his team succumbed to malaria. This mountain received its first ascent by a team led by Dutchman Ronald Naar in 1993 who couldn't get a permit in time, because of the bureaucracy of the government at the time, so an illegal ascent was made.