– Lat/Long: 35.15° N 74.62° E

PkRupal Peak – Climbing Notes


Rupal Peak Climbing notes shared by Mountain-Forecast users

  • June 26, 2021
    Vaderno Franco from Zimbabwe

    The north-face of pyramid form of Rupal Peak was climbed by a member of International Nanga Parbat Expedition 1990. (France-Germany-Italy)

    The afternoon after establishing the base-camp at Tap-meadows he went following the valley leading to the base of this wall. From the base-camp for Schell-route one can see the approaching valley and the peak. There are no special remarks necessary, just follow the straight valley.

    Following new photos today the ice conditions are worse - same as similar walls in that height. Before it was only ice, today same rocks left and right might cause some (?) stone-falls in summer.

    The climbing he started in the night, He reached the top with the first morning light. It is an ice-wall of even steepness, beginning with about 50° and soon more than 60°. One can climb the wall on his own line direct to the top.

    The used descent is also easy to find. He went down the north-eastridge on the right side of the wall. (Note: The direction is noted in the sense of orthography, looking down from the top.) This ridge is also easy to find maybe 40-45 °. and one reaches the ascent route at the base of the wall.

    He was back at the base-camp at the end of the morning. He needed about 20 hours included a few hours rest in the night for about 2.150 m (?) up and down.

    It's NOT the common route for trekkers. It's not an extreme ice climb, but requires a bit of experience in ice.