Rupal Peak – Climbing Notes
Rupal Peak – Climbing Notes
Rupal Peak Climbing notes shared by Mountain-Forecast users
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(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
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June 26, 2021
Vaderno Franco from Zimbabwe
The north-face of pyramid form of Rupal Peak was climbed by a member of International Nanga Parbat Expedition 1990. (France-Germany-Italy)
The afternoon after establishing the base-camp at Tap-meadows he went following the valley leading to the base of this wall. From the base-camp for Schell-route one can see the approaching valley and the peak. There are no special remarks necessary, just follow the straight valley.
Following new photos today the ice conditions are worse - same as similar walls in that height. Before it was only ice, today same rocks left and right might cause some (?) stone-falls in summer.
The climbing he started in the night, He reached the top with the first morning light. It is an ice-wall of even steepness, beginning with about 50° and soon more than 60°. One can climb the wall on his own line direct to the top.
The used descent is also easy to find. He went down the north-eastridge on the right side of the wall. (Note: The direction is noted in the sense of orthography, looking down from the top.) This ridge is also easy to find maybe 40-45 °. and one reaches the ascent route at the base of the wall.
He was back at the base-camp at the end of the morning. He needed about 20 hours included a few hours rest in the night for about 2.150 m (?) up and down.
It's NOT the common route for trekkers. It's not an extreme ice climb, but requires a bit of experience in ice.
(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
Vaderno Franco from Zimbabwe
The north-face of pyramid form of Rupal Peak was climbed by a member of International Nanga Parbat Expedition 1990. (France-Germany-Italy)
The afternoon after establishing the base-camp at Tap-meadows he went following the valley leading to the base of this wall. From the base-camp for Schell-route one can see the approaching valley and the peak. There are no special remarks necessary, just follow the straight valley.
Following new photos today the ice conditions are worse - same as similar walls in that height. Before it was only ice, today same rocks left and right might cause some (?) stone-falls in summer.
The climbing he started in the night, He reached the top with the first morning light. It is an ice-wall of even steepness, beginning with about 50° and soon more than 60°. One can climb the wall on his own line direct to the top.
The used descent is also easy to find. He went down the north-eastridge on the right side of the wall. (Note: The direction is noted in the sense of orthography, looking down from the top.) This ridge is also easy to find maybe 40-45 °. and one reaches the ascent route at the base of the wall.
He was back at the base-camp at the end of the morning. He needed about 20 hours included a few hours rest in the night for about 2.150 m (?) up and down.
It's NOT the common route for trekkers. It's not an extreme ice climb, but requires a bit of experience in ice.
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