Mount Robson Climbing Notes
Rainbow Range · Canada
Mount Robson climbing notes shared by Mountain-Forecast users
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(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
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August 19, 2026
Dylan Watts from Canada
Trek to the RR col was about 9.5 hours at a moderate pace with a few breaks, 45lb packs, lots of water sources on the way only needed to carry a 1lr filter bottle.
once at RR col camp we had a water source, bit of a pond from the melted snowfield that we boiled/filtered.
We decided to stay at RR col camp rather then moving to the Dome camp to avoid carrying heavy packs up and over the towers there/back and setting up camp twice. Also prefer to have water and hard ground to camp on vs Snow.
Towers were a mix of 3rd and 4th class with a little 5th class move section on tower 3, there was a rope fixed on this move wich was helpful once we determined it was secure to use. Lots of loose rock so be careful on what your grabbing.
Navigating the Robson glacier after the towers, lots of signs of crevasses but pretty mellow otherwise, slight incline walk to dome camp and then to the kain face.
Kain face at around 3am was pretty firm ice/snow and was pretty decent to climb, was 6 pitches. Found a spot on the left side where the bergschrund was thing and had a bit of a bridge to cross, needed to full on ice climb this 12' vertical face section of the bergschrund to get up and over.
Once topped out on the kain face there's a flat section wich is good for having a break, then the ridge, the ridge was pretty firm in the morning, pretty narrow and sloping about 25 degrees with shear drops on either side and heavily corniced on the right side.
Continuing up the ridge to towards the summit we stayed right and took the paths between the blocks of ice/snow untill we reached the top gargoyles where we went directly left to enter the summit ride, wich was wider and easier to climb up on VS the right side that was very narrow and corniced. Careful on the summit ridge as its heavily corniced, we walked to the actual summit from there and then descended back.
Kain face was super soft and sloppy coming down, ended up setting up repels off rocks we took from the top of the kain face and brought down with us to set as anchors for each pitch. There was a fellow on that day that did downclimb freely while we rapped so it can be done.
All in all, summit push from RR col to RR col was 18 hours, we could have saved about 5 hours by staying at the Dome camp but looking back still think it was better to stay at the Col, water source and light packs over the towers was worth it.
Lots of human Sh** around the RR col camp FYI please try and chuck it away from the camp area!!
Also weather changes fast, our summit day was showing completely clear and we still had cloud move in and a bit of a whiteout coming down the kain face. Robson weather can be pretty hard to predict. Amazing feeling to summit this one, worth the hard effort.
(NOTE: Texts may be edited by our content team for the purposes of ensuring accurate and relevant information)
Dylan Watts from Canada
Trek to the RR col was about 9.5 hours at a moderate pace with a few breaks, 45lb packs, lots of water sources on the way only needed to carry a 1lr filter bottle.
once at RR col camp we had a water source, bit of a pond from the melted snowfield that we boiled/filtered.
We decided to stay at RR col camp rather then moving to the Dome camp to avoid carrying heavy packs up and over the towers there/back and setting up camp twice. Also prefer to have water and hard ground to camp on vs Snow.
Towers were a mix of 3rd and 4th class with a little 5th class move section on tower 3, there was a rope fixed on this move wich was helpful once we determined it was secure to use. Lots of loose rock so be careful on what your grabbing.
Navigating the Robson glacier after the towers, lots of signs of crevasses but pretty mellow otherwise, slight incline walk to dome camp and then to the kain face.
Kain face at around 3am was pretty firm ice/snow and was pretty decent to climb, was 6 pitches. Found a spot on the left side where the bergschrund was thing and had a bit of a bridge to cross, needed to full on ice climb this 12' vertical face section of the bergschrund to get up and over.
Once topped out on the kain face there's a flat section wich is good for having a break, then the ridge, the ridge was pretty firm in the morning, pretty narrow and sloping about 25 degrees with shear drops on either side and heavily corniced on the right side.
Continuing up the ridge to towards the summit we stayed right and took the paths between the blocks of ice/snow untill we reached the top gargoyles where we went directly left to enter the summit ride, wich was wider and easier to climb up on VS the right side that was very narrow and corniced. Careful on the summit ridge as its heavily corniced, we walked to the actual summit from there and then descended back.
Kain face was super soft and sloppy coming down, ended up setting up repels off rocks we took from the top of the kain face and brought down with us to set as anchors for each pitch. There was a fellow on that day that did downclimb freely while we rapped so it can be done.
All in all, summit push from RR col to RR col was 18 hours, we could have saved about 5 hours by staying at the Dome camp but looking back still think it was better to stay at the Col, water source and light packs over the towers was worth it.
Lots of human Sh** around the RR col camp FYI please try and chuck it away from the camp area!!
Also weather changes fast, our summit day was showing completely clear and we still had cloud move in and a bit of a whiteout coming down the kain face. Robson weather can be pretty hard to predict. Amazing feeling to summit this one, worth the hard effort.
