Mount Hood Climbing Notes
Please submit any useful information about climbing Mount Hood that may be useful to other climbers. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Mount Hood, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit.
June 21, 2018
LOUIS from United States
Climbed June 12, 2018
Southside via Pearly Gates
Very hard surface from Hogsback to the top of the gates. Some step kicking, but mostly on front points. Summited solo at 5:20 AM, but it was already getting warm and there was significant icefall when downclimbing through the gates and just below. Overall, conditions were good. One tool was sufficient, but two might have been preferable.
It's now one week later and it is significantly warmer at the top of the Palmer (skiing). I would expect that conditions are deteriorating, and rock and icefall is likely substantial. Climb early and get through the gates quickly!
June 04, 2018
Ben from United States
Climbed June 2nd, 2018.
South Side route via Pearly Gates.
Departed Timberline at 12:15 am, summited at 6:00 am. Great conditions: Clear skies, low wind, firm snow. Ditched skis above Palmer Lift House due to a crust/wind slab at higher elevations. Bergshrund was significantly opened, about 5 ft at widest point. Required detour around and across snow bridge. The Pearly Gates were less steep this year than past years, but a second tool is still highly recommended. Ascended/descended Pearly Gates, which seemed to be the norm, didn’t have any issues displacing up traffic. Did not see any climbers on Mazamas/Old Shoot. Route is in good condition but wouldn’t recommend climbing much later in the season because of possible rockfall, exacerbated by low snow fall this year and high temperatures.
May 08, 2018
Hutch from United States
Climbed May 7, 2018. South side, Hogsback, Pearly Gates.
Departed Timberline at 12:41, reached summit at 4:57. Great conditions with firm snow, clear skies, mild wind. Bergschrund was starting to open and was less than a 12 inch gap where we crossed. Well established climber's path leading up to and through the gates. Crevasse will likely open widely soon, requiring a route detour to Pearly Gates.
Took left side Pearly Gates and saw nobody ascend the right. Did not see any climbers going Old Chute/Mazama route, although those are typically viable options as well. Overall great surface, route, and weather conditions.
July 12, 2017
Ben Jewart from United States
My wife and summited with the help of Timberline Mountain Guides on July 9th. We hiked up to 9200 ft, set up camp for the night and did about an hour of basic snow and ice climbing course. We ate dinner, tried to sleep and prepared to start summit trek at 1:00am. We started hiking at 2:00am and got to the hogs back exhausted at 3:00. We considered turning back for fear of being to unfit to finish. However, we rallied and pushed over the hogs back, through the hot rocks and up the old chute. We reached the summit at approx. 4:30am. We saw an awesome sunrise in the east and had a near full moon to the west. We got some awesome pics and quickly descended to avoid warming snow and crowds approaching the chute. We hiked straight back to the lodge and arrived safely at 9:30am. We are not mountaineers but do hike regularly. This task was extremely tiring for us and would not recommend attempting without professional help and advice. Good luck and enjoy!!
June 27, 2017
Hutch from United States
June 25, 2017 summit, 0630. Ascended the south side route to the Hogsback. Dropped off the Hogsback, crossed the hot rocks, and then up through the old chute. Despite a week of warm temps, the snow condition was good, offering solid footing.
We saw no climbers taking the Pearly Gates. The Bergschrund extended far enough toward Devil's Kitchen to put a climber in a direct ice/rock fall line if traversing around the SE end.
May 08, 2017
Hutch from United States
Climbed May 7, 2017. South side, Hogsback, Pearly Gates route.
Departed at midnight. Waited 45 min at Palmer lift house and 15 min at the Hogsback as we were on track to summit too early (wanted a sunrise). On summit at 4:57 (still too early for sunrise). Went back down to top of the gates, and then back to the summit again to catch sunrise.
Snow conditions and weather were excellent. Windy almost the entire route. Approach to Pearly gates more exposed than last year at this time. Took left chute Pearly gates, which seemed less difficult than the approach and was in good condition. Most were taking this route. Didn't see anyone ascend the right chute, or anyone going up the Old Chute/Mazama route.
Bergschrund was only opened about 5-6 inches on ascent, but opened significantly before descent, requiring either crossing a 10 foot wide snow bridge or going around. Noticed other climbers crossing the snow bridge once we reached the bottom of the Hogsback.
Back to Timberline at 9:00am. Overall a perfect day for a climb and summit!
May 23, 2016
Nick from United States
At 1:00 am Friday May 20, 2016, we ascended the south side route via the old chute. Despite a virtual white-out only 5 hours earlier, we encountered cold and clear weather (as forecast on this website). We skin skied from the parking lot at timberline lodge to where the Cat drops off the other climbers. Ditched our skis and traded them for crampons. We then made our way to the Hogsback and proceeded to climb by the hot rocks and ascend the 1:00 chute. It was sunny, clear and virtually windless on the summit. I took us 7 hours and 6 minutes to ascend, including multiple stops.
There were some teams having difficulty navigating the berchsend, and thus having trouble with the pearly gates, so that guided our decision to follow the old route.
From my observation, the berchsend opened about foot and a half, but my vantage point was from a distance.
The descent was decent. Down climbed on all fours back through the 1:00 chute and made it back to the lodge via skis from the top of Palmer lift down, 3 hours and 6 minutes on the descent, with skis for the last 2800 vertical feet.
Breathtaking peak, great climb... be safe and enjoy.
May 16, 2016
Adam from United States
Climbed on May 14, 2016. Left around midnight, Hogsback around 5:30am, summit around 6:30am. Bergschrund is starting to open, it was about 1 foot wide with a snow bridge across it. I doubt the snow bridge will last much longer than a week. If the snow bridge disappears, traversing around it to the right is probably the best option.
May 12, 2016
Scoot from United States
May 2nd, 2016 summit. Conditions were perfect, leaving Timberline parking lot at 12am and reaching the summit just before 8am. Route was hogsback to Pearly Gates, using left side (chute) once at the top, and the same on the decent. Was told the right side was more difficult by other climbers that morning. Zero wind at the top, different from the forecast 20-30 sustained. Bergschrund not opened.
May 10, 2016
Hutch from United States
May 7, 2016 summit. Great conditions. Hogsback to Pearly Gates, took chute to climbers left. Back down the same route. Bergschrund not open yet. Right chute another viable option, as several climbers went up and down that way as well.
April 21, 2016
Justin from United States
Good conditions. Hogsback set up on Pearly Gates this year for South Route, up and down climbed this route. Bergschrund had not yet opened at this time.
January 12, 2016
Chase from United States
Group of 3 left timberline around 4am, summited around noon. Conditions were ideal for a winter ascent.
We took the old chute, which was very icy yet still accessible. Summit weather was 10-15mph winds, and around 10 degrees.
Visibility was superb, could easily see Jefferson, 3 Sisters, Adams, Saint Helens, and a dizzying array of galaxies far, far away...