Fang Mountain mountain guide
- Elevation: 2053 m
- Difficulty: Technical Climb
- Best months to climb: May, June, July
- Convenient center: Fairbanks
Fang Mountain Climbing Notes
Brian Schmidt from UNITED STATES writes:
Technical rock climb for several hundred feet, snow earlier in the season can help get through steep scree (crampons needed).
There is a route to the top that gets no worse than 5.7 (mostly much easier) but route-finding is very difficult and rock is in terrible condition. I soloed it but a belayer would be in a lot of danger from rocks. Rope solo likely the only "safe" way to climb this peak. Coming from the north, go to the right side of the face but not too far right or you'll get stuck among gendarmes. Center and left didn't work for me.
I climbed it in 2004 and I know of 2 prior ascents, one was written up.
A lot of hikers get lost going back there and think they've climbed Fang when they've climbed something else. It is not a scramble, or at least not an easy and safe one.
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