Egmont Climbing Notes
Please submit any useful information about climbing Egmont that may be useful to other climbers. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Egmont, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit.
April 18, 2018
William Archibald from New Zealand
Be aware of sudden freezes and weather change as this mountain is close to the Tasman Sea.
In summer north ridge is packed with tourists and in Winter the Plateau is packed with locals.
North ridge is the main go, stay at Tahurangi Lodge run by TAC.
North ridge is poled all the way to crater entrance but in winter it would not be advisable to use this as entrance to the crater.
Instead drop into the crater valley (more north or counter clockwise from the poles).
East is a lot steeper and less traversed if you are up for a challenge. Descend into the crater and descend down surrey to save a steep decent.
Skifield Direct is also less traversed. If you are real keen head up Ted's Alley.
South face is great if you wish to also summit Fanthams Peak. Stay or stop at Syme hut.
Plenty of other climbs too, look up the local guide book for these plus Ice climbs and rock Crags too.